Housetraining a puppy doesn’t have to feel like a guessing game. Start with a consistent schedule: take your puppy out first thing in the morning, after meals, naps, and playtime.
On top of those “usual suspects”, keep in mind that tiny puppies need to go out every 30-6o minutes in the beginning! As they get older, they need fewer trips outside. But don’t wait for your pup to ask — take them out on a consistent schedule.
Accompany your puppy outside so you are ready to reward your pup for a successful potty trip!
If you can’t keep a close eye on them, use a crate as a safe, cozy space.
Accidents indoors? Skip the scolding—interrupt gently and guide them outside.
And if you are having accidents regularly, your pup needs less freedom to roam for now.
Consistency is key. If you’re frustrated, short on time, or would just like to hand this aspect of training over to a pro, our PupStart program is designed just for you!
Puppy chewing is natural and necessary—but when it turns destructive, it can sometimes be a sign of unmet needs. Teething relief, boredom, and lack of boundaries can all play a role. The better part of valor is simply to puppy proof your house to the extent you can – pick up toys, close closet doors, keep laundry baskets off the floor, etc. From there, train your dog to adore particular chew toys (for example, fill Kongs with healthy deliciousness – a stuffed Kong is way more interesting to chew on than a dry, old shoe). Rotate enrichment activities and redirect to better chewing options calmly when your pup targets furniture or the TV remote. The secret isn’t just stopping the chewing—it’s helping them choose the right items to chew. I can help you decode your puppy’s behavior and build a plan that protects your home and supports healthy development.
If your puppy’s keeping you up at night, you’re not alone. Sleep deprivation during puppyhood is real—and exhausting. Nighttime whining, restlessness and early wake-ups are sometimes hard to “translate”. For example, is it a genuine need to potty? Is the puppy simply voicing a complaint about being confined? Is the issue actually that the puppy is not having enough physical activity during the day, or is waking up hungry? Luckily, I am here to help. Let’s create a sleep plan that honors your puppy’s needs and your sanity.
Puppy biting isn’t aggression—it’s communication, exploration, and sometimes overstimulation. Teaching bite inhibition starts with calm redirection, consistent boundaries, and recognizing when your pup needs a break. Every puppy learns differently, and I can help you turn those sharp little teeth into soft, respectful interactions.
Feeling like you can’t take your eyes off your puppy for a second? That’s normal in the early stages—but exhausting. Strategic confinement, enrichment zones, and short, supervised freedoms can help your puppy build independence without chaos. I’ll help you design a rhythm that gives you breathing room while supporting your puppy’s growth.
Socialization isn’t just exposure—it’s careful strategic exposure. The goal is confidence, not overwhelm. Introduce your puppy to new sights, sounds, people, and dogs gradually, using positive reinforcement and escape options. Done right, socialization builds resilience and joy. I’ll help you create a plan that nurtures your puppy’s spirit while preventing fear-based behaviors down the road.
Crate training should feel like comfort, not confinement. While using soft bedding and a consistent bedtime “ritual” is very helpful, I find certain “crate games” and gradual alone-time practice during the day really help your puppy settle in at night. Crate training works hand-in-hand with your housetraining. A pup sleeping through the night is often the first sign that they are developing physically enough to need fewer potty outings during the day. If your evenings feel chaotic or your pup struggles to sleep, I can help you create a nighttime flow that brings peace to those restless nights.
Puppy bellies are sensitive—and digestive drama is common. Loose stools, gas, or picky eating can stem from a number of issues: diet changes, stress, food allergies, or even illnesses and parasites. It’s hard to know sometimes what is at the root of the problem. So keep meals consistent, avoid rich treats, and start your pup on a good probiotic as a normal meal additive. If your puppy’s tummy seems off, I can help you troubleshoot to help you determine what rises to the level of needing a vet visit.
Obedience isn’t about control—it’s about communication. Teaching sit, stay, come, and leash manners starts with trust, timing, and clarity. Skip the harsh corrections and lean into a real engagement by using a clicker. Your clicker trained dog will learn to offer behaviors to you on purpose, rather than simply following his nose and repeating a habitual trick. The difference between an animal that behaves with intention, rather than simply by habit, is vast. Let’s build obedience skills that feel like partnership—not power struggles.
Separation anxiety in puppies can show up as whining, barking, destructive behavior, or accidents when left alone. It’s not misbehavior—it’s emotional distress. The key to easing puppy separation anxiety is gradual independence-building: short absences, crate comfort, and calm departures. Avoid dramatic goodbyes and focus on creating a predictable routine that reassures your pup. Every puppy is different, and what soothes one may overwhelm another. If your puppy struggles to settle when you leave, I can help you design a separation plan that builds confidence, calm behavior, and trust—on both ends of the leash.
